Sticky HS33? Anybody?

Discussion in 'Observed Trials Discussion' started by oicdn, Apr 4, 2004.

  1. oicdn

    oicdn Guest

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    Anybody have issues with thier HS33 piston not retracting back completely after braking?

    Like, after I brake, one side sticks to the rim. I can roll and everything, there's really no rolling resistance but it makes that annoying sound cause it's lightly touching the rim. I can wiggle my bike when rolling to make the noise go away(push the piston away slightly from wheel flex), but it comes back after I use the brake again. I can pull it back (then the other side gets closer) and if I pull it in TOO much, the other side will the the side that sticks.

    But mostly, it's the same side, I guess what'd be the "master" cause it's the side that the lever hose is attached to.

    Anybody else have this issue?
     
  2. username

    username Guest

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    My best guess is that the tpa is adjusted too far.
    Back it out, move in and re align slaves.
     

  3. oicdn

    oicdn Guest

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    I played with them...They have a factory bleed on them, which might be the problem?

    Either way, when I play with the TPA, it's like 2-4 revolutions away from as tight as they can get. If I turn them any more tight, it get worse rub, any farther out and there is too much lever trave, like when I have to brake hard it will be pretty close to the bar.
     
  4. cogmog

    cogmog Member

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    Ive had the same problem a few times. One time I blead the line with like a full 150 cc syringe taping the cylinder housing the whole time to get anyh air out, and it worked. The other time I had to disasemble the whole assembly and clean the around the piston o-ring. Both times it was back to normal after the service. Make sure your tpa is backed out all the way while bleeding hope that helps. :cool:
     
  5. ascentrek

    ascentrek Original power yuppie

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    I had the exact same problem. I adjusted my TPA and pulled the lever back without the rim, took off the pads, and cleaned/lubed the calipers. Seemed to work really well.
     
  6. durkie

    durkie Member

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    yeah, that's almost certainly what it is. set aside an hour or two, mount your wheel sans tire and tube in your frame, back your tpa all the way out, and take the time to set up your maguras perfectly: distance from rim, squareness of pad contact, all that jazz. grease things nicely, torque them down proper, the whole deal. it'll probably be the last time you touch them, so 2 hours over a year or two seems like a decent maintenance schedule. and while you're at it, replace the quick release on your evolution adaptors with a bolt.
     
  7. cogmog

    cogmog Member

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    please tell me your not using a evolution adaptor.......I wish I had v-brake posts! I would throw my mags out a window!
     
  8. RomanR

    RomanR DualDisc 26"

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    its a 4 bolt.

    and yea, undo the tpa all the way, and set them up again. if you need to, take the wheel off, then hold the lever blade to the bars with a string or something to push the pistons out, then clean and lube the pistons. after everything, check that there is no delay between lever movement and pad movement. if there is, you'll need to rebleed them.
     
  9. oicdn

    oicdn Guest

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    I looked at them, and there is no delay between releasing and pressing to the pad movement. They respond fine.

    What do I clean the pistons/lube them with? I don't have any Magura Blood so I'll have to order some if it comes to bleeding them. What about distilled water, anybody actually have any experiance with it?
     
  10. OTAdmin

    OTAdmin Administrator Staff Member

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    I've used tri-flow and magura blood, WD-40 will clean them off pretty good too.
     
  11. [BMF] Chris

    [BMF] Chris GTA MUTHER FUCKER!

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    ummm, you can use anything in your brakes to make them work, ive got windsheild washer fuluid in my rear brake right now, just use any liquid thats thin. and that dosent come outa your sink, hell id even suggest piss, you know, i think i might just go try that...................
     
  12. Gardenfan

    Gardenfan Guest

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    it has probably already been said, but back the TPA off all the way, and set them up so you don't have to use it period, or very little if you do.
     
  13. cogmog

    cogmog Member

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    When I dont have mag fluid, I use Mineral Oil, (it can be found at any walgreens, k-mart etc)(not mineral spirits) It works fine,, but I still prefer Mag fluid. I would clean the the reast of the guts out real good with the same! You probably know this already, but tip your lever up so the bleed screw is at the highest point and tapp the lever body, master cylinder bodya and slave body with a like a small box wrench while your bleeding them (takes two people) to make sure all the air gets out of the system. And yes, definetly adjust tyour brakes the best you can with the tpa adjusted all the way in. Dont depend on your tpa to fully adjust them. It should only be used for minor adjustments if brakes are set up good. :cool:
     
  14. durkie

    durkie Member

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    finish line 10 wt shock oil is the same as magura blood. most shops should have it.
     
  15. AndyT

    AndyT New Member

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    mineral oil feels like shit.

    10 wt shock oil is not the same as maggie blood, but it feels nice.

    anti freeze owns all your cocks for feel, followed closely by water (downside of water = if its cold outside, it will freeze and no riding for you...not a problem now in the spring though...).

    I've run lots of things....I now run maggie fluid, after a year or two with playing around w/other fluids you're shit will leak- these seals aren't exactly the best in the world.
     
  16. RomanR

    RomanR DualDisc 26"

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    ive always ran 5 wt finish line oil in mine. gonna try some 2.5 next time i bleed them though.
     
  17. valiumlaw

    valiumlaw Guest

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    Have you tried the Magura Cult home page? It has alot of info on magura brakes of all kinds, you might find the solution to your problem in their FAQ.

    http://www.execulink.com/~dtierney/wmc/Magura/contents.htm

    If it were me with your problem id twiddle around with the TPA, then twiddle around with the reach adjustment screw and lever clamp screw on the lever, then if the problem didnt magically disappear id go for a compelte re-bleed, use water or olive oil if you have no bikey/mechanical substitutes, bleeding instructions are available on www.magura.com , they probably have a .PDF file you can download. I think its called Magura Rim Brakes Service Manual , you should find it under a lsit on their page somewhere.