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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
ive posted this on biketrials.com as well, but if anyone needs spoke lengths for a wheel build i can calculate them for you with a program i have at the shop, its NEVER steered me wrong. or, if you'd like a fellow trials rider to build your wheel, just let me know.

-Dave
 

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Hey BigD! It was great riding with you last weekend. Hope you get back into your groove this year and ride more! I've been to that shop. Great place. Bigger than fook. You should carry Trials parts.

I'm a wheel builder as well. After having studied engineering, i finally started using a new technic crossed over from on of the disciplines I studied. Result? Stronger than hell wheels. ...and whats different? I hardly need to use a truing stand.

Not to steel your business, but if anyone wants a wheel built (Free, you send me the parts) let me know.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
what technique is it that you use?

i had an awesome time at confluence, and hell yeah i want to ride my arse off this year. and of course i'd build wheels for fellow trials riders free as well, im not tryin to score a buck, just helping the sport. im definitely going to talk to the sales managers about stocking trials parts. we just put in a dowhnill section with a bunch of DH specific stuff, so it wouldn't be hard to stock some trials bits in the mountain case right next to it.
 

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Using a hydraulic stresser to pre-stress the wheel, and bouncing the wheel as you bring up tension,help dramatically to produce a stable build. Linseed oil or purple loc tite help as well.
Colorado Cyclist holds the best wheels title.Too bad we don't sell
trials wheels.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
that sounds about right. but a hydraulic stresser? i stand and bounce on my wheels sideways on the floor then place them back in the stand to true and round them again. i repeat that process over and over until it stays perfect after stressing it repeatedly.
 

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If you're in town ,wanna check out some local riding ,givea holla @
1-800-688-8600 ext 117 and leave a mess age.

The dancing wheel stresser is the next dandiest trick.Also after lacing and nipping press withyour palms to bed the spokes,and then squeeze the parrallel spokes together after ever half turn as you bring it up ,do the bounce after every time round too.

And as always build it dished 1/4 " to the drive side then last step,tesion the non drv so you aren't over tightening the drive side nipples,this effectively tightens the drive side higher than you easily can without stripping the drv side.Just by using the lower tensioned non drv.

Go with brass or bust yo ass!
 

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afrobot said:
Using a hydraulic stresser to pre-stress the wheel, and bouncing the wheel as you bring up tension,help dramatically to produce a stable build. Linseed oil or purple loc tite help as well.
Colorado Cyclist holds the best wheels title.Too bad we don't sell
trials wheels.
If you do it right, you don't need a stresser.
 

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bigd said:
what technique is it that you use?
Its a methodology. I don't know what to call it, but I guess the Taylor Process. I use a Spoke Tensionometer 99% of the time, and a trueing stand 1%. When I'm done, the wheel (provided the rim is in good shape) every spoke will be within %1 tension of the others. I built up a set of Mavic 317's/14-15/Hadley hubs for my SC Bullit, and they've taken some hard hits (6 to flat), over rock piles, and they're still true. I haven't had to touchem.

I'm building up my new wheels this weekend if you'd like to learn. You're probably pretty good anyway.

OH YEAH, Just picked up my Chris KINGS!
 

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afrobot said:
Colorado Cyclist holds the best wheels title.
Yeah, CC does make a mean wheel. I took a look at a few builds we had done for some of our customers back in the day when I worked at a LBS. Your Spokes, however, were tensioned within 10%. Not bad, much better than ANY standard wheel build coming from a catalog / mail order.

Trials wheels should hold to 1%. The forces are completely isolated at times on the wheel.

Too bad we don't sell trials wheels.
Wanna start a business?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
sorry for the wait, i had to get the tryall erd's. anyways, your:

CK Classic 32h w/ Tryall Rear 3x

L= 262.6 (262)
R= 259.9 (260)

CK Classic 32h w/ Rhynolite XL 3x

L= 266.6 (266)
R= 263.9 (264)

so no, you'd need to get spokes 4mm shorter on both sides.
 
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