Spoke Tension - Tight?

Discussion in 'Observed Trials Discussion' started by valiumlaw, Mar 18, 2004.

  1. valiumlaw

    valiumlaw Guest

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    Im curious as to what everyone elses spoke tension is on their rear wheel. My drive side spokes are noticably tighter than the non drive side spokes. Yet my wheel seems straight when sitting in my frame. If i tighten the non drive side spokes i fear my wheel will go out of true and off left more than right...

    Do you think i should tighten my left side spokes so their tension is closer to that of the drive side spokes, or should i leave it...

    What kind of spoke tension do you lot run, or have run successfully, both drive and non drive side...

    Thanks. :yum:
     
  2. smudge

    smudge Central Scrrrrrrrutinizer

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    The tension on your drive side spokes will almost always be higher than that of your ND spokes (unless you build a zero dish wheel). The drive side spokes are shorter and have a much steeper angle that requires the higher tension to center the rim between the locknuts. Ever tensiometer is calibrated differently. I aim to hit a 55 on my tensiometer for the drive side and front spokes. For me, that means about 115kg of force on each spoke. It's certainly not necessary to build wheels using a tensiometer, but it's nice to have quantitave measuments to make accurate tension comparisons between spokes.

    Sean
     

  3. ascentrek

    ascentrek Original power yuppie

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    smudge is right. If you look down your rim with the hub in the center, you'll notice that the drive side has a straighter angle. It is basic physics (Statics). Because of the cassette, there's not a lot of area for the drive side spoke to pull from. Cosine effect.

    As for spoke tensions... Every wheel built for trials SHOULD have a tensionometer used to build. Otherwise, just throw away the wheel right now. Just because its true doesn't make it strong. Wheel builds from most places have what I call cross-forcing. One spoke is over tightened to compensate for the weaker one. These need to be evened out. A correct wheel build for trials will have all spokes within 5% of tension from all others on the same side. When I build wheels, I use the tensionometer exclusively. You'd be surprised how straight the wheel is when you're done.

    The non drive side is usually 60% less in tension from the drive side.
     
  4. ascentrek

    ascentrek Original power yuppie

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    BTW, I go for 100 to 115 KG's. However, depending on the width, you can increase the tension. Tryall and DX32's you can get up to the 130's because they're wide and resist the taco more.

    You can't compare the tensionometer numbers (ie 55) to other's... every tensionometer has different spring rates due to mfg process, and every tensionometer has its own guide that goes with it.
     
  5. smudge

    smudge Central Scrrrrrrrutinizer

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    Finally, someone agrees with me on something. Hoo Rah.

    Every wheel SHOULD be built using a tensiometer. But not everyone has access to one or finds it financially viable to purchase one.

    Another technique at determining relative tension is to pluck the spokes individually while using something to damp the sympathetic resonance of the other spokes. The tone of all spokes per side should sound the same. If you have a good ear, you'll be able to pick up on the tone difference. This is only good for a tension comparison as you'll have no way of determining actual tension without the proper tools.
     
  6. valiumlaw

    valiumlaw Guest

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    Ok then. Thanks for the replies.

    I think my wheel must be fine as it is then. :cool:
     
  7. BP-Mobile

    BP-Mobile New Member

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    Ascentrek,
    Do you run lower tension on drilled DX-32s? I am nervous when approaching 120kg and I can see the rim webbing. Do you use spoke prep or spoke freeze? Thanks...
     
  8. Ed Gildea

    Ed Gildea New Member

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    i build the wheels and my dad makes em strate.. .he has been known to buld a "few" in his day :) hehe
     
  9. pav

    pav New Member

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    while on this topic how do u fix ovalisation? like where the rim is not round in a certain spot, i trued out my DX32 and tightened the spokes up nicely today but i realised it is not 100% round, it is out a little,

    how is this fixed ??

    pav
     
  10. bigd

    bigd Guest

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    where the rim is extended the spokes on both sides need to be tightened, and where the rim is pulled they need to be loesened on both sides. the easiest way to do this is find the two spokes right next to each other (one from ecah side) thats right at the peak, or center, of a rise or dip.

    if the tension is high use small turns (1/8th rotation or less)

    go back and forth between roundness and trueness until its perfect.
     
  11. pav

    pav New Member

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    thanks alot i will do that when i can be botherd, probably now actaully

    pav
     
  12. trialsbug

    trialsbug New Member

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  13. Elan

    Elan steve french

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    i have never touched a tensionmeter, and i have never seen my boss ever use one... my wheels are awesome too.