New bike, new setup, quick question

Discussion in 'Observed Trials Discussion' started by ascentrek, Mar 15, 2004.

  1. ascentrek

    ascentrek Original power yuppie

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    Well, I joined herd of cattle in colorado and I too, have a Koxx LB 1065.

    The front disc setup is weak. Actually it sucks to no end. Its a Deore Mechanical brake setup. It doesn't work. I pull and pull that lever back and the bike keeps on going.

    Near term, what can I do? Sand the pads a little?, how about the rotor?

    Long term, what should I put on there? I'd like to stay with disc, but I'm wondering if its worth it. It'll be a while, as my wife is saying "no more buying bike parts until the house is in better shape :eek:wned: ". But I can handle that. What do you run in the front (disc reply's only)? What would you recommend?
     
  2. smudge

    smudge Central Scrrrrrrrutinizer

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    The rotor and pads need some time to "bed in" to develop a good bite. I've never owned a set of Deore discs so I can't comment specifically on them, but I also haven't seen a set of discs that can't benefit from a proper bedding in.

    Most companies suggest that you put some miles on your brakes and they'll improve as they wear. Trials bikes typically don't get many miles so people have had to come up with other techniques. Something that has worked well for me was to bed them in on a treadmill by placing the front wheel on the belt, sitting on the top tube and holding the brake while I spray the rotor and caliper with cold water to keep the fluid from boiling (yes, it did boil once).

    I think most people just make a bunch of hard stops down a steep hill. Hope also recommends that you put some mud on your rotor and ride around with the brake applied. Whatever you decide to do, a new brake typically requires some time to bed it in properly.

    Proper set up can also drastically affect your brake power. Ideally, you'd face the brake mounts and set up the caliper perfectly.

    As for brands of discs...I've had great experience with Hope. I've been using their stuff since 1998 and have had very little problem with them. They've always given great support when I've needed it and their brakes work nealy flawlessly when setup correctly. Right now I have a C2, a set of M4's, a set of Enduro 4's and a Mono Mini all in service and they work great.

    Sean
     

  3. MikeTheBike

    MikeTheBike Active Member

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    If the rotor and pads are brand new, they probably just need broken in. I've only ever dealt with Magura hydraulic discs so these instructions may not apply. Anyway, if your brakes use a sintered pad (graphite and metal flakes), try heating the pads on the stove or with a lighter for several minutes to bake out the oils from manufacturing. Clean the rotors thoroughly with rubbing alchohol. Then, set everthing back up on the bike and spray the pads and rotor with some clean water. Take off riding and slam on the brakes from high speed several times. Re-apply the water to the rotor and pads every few minutes during the speed stops.

    This technique is used by cars, motorcyles and just about any place disc brakes are used. It is a very important step during the breakin to get the pads to "bed" into to the rotor.

    Good luck!
     
  4. oicdn

    oicdn Guest

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    My Louises grabbed like absolute shit when they were new. The rotor and Pads were both new. Just ride down a hill (you're in Colorado, should be easy to find compared to my Flat Florida) and ride the brake the whole way down. Or, just use the front ALOT..... These Maguras seem to take YEARS to "bed" and bite. My Hopes, I put in new pads and they gripped like they were already broken in. The Louise was the first brake I've used other than a Hope, so the break-in was a little new...so I just rode on the brake and after like 4 hours, they were broke in enough and you could lock it EASILY....
     
  5. Elan

    Elan steve french

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    Taylor, quick fix = avid mech disc + xtr/avid ultimate lever. the sram lever you have felt like absolute crap to me, andi have never heard of the deore disc actually working...
     
  6. afrobot

    afrobot Aluminum is for recycling

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    Shimano disc brakes are known the world around for being less than stellar......Shit...

    Congrats on the frame I too am a sheep..
     
  7. JK

    JK New Member

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    I have a Magura Louise. It's the older one, with the adjustment screws on both sides of the caliper. This brake locks up rediculously well, you could almost say too well. It is grabbier than any Hope mini I have tried, and this is with still with the original stock pads.

    The only complaint I have about the brake is that the lever makes my finger numb. It's probably my lever position or something, but the end of a long ride, the tip of my finger will be absolutely numb for a day.

    Since I have two complete Louise brakes like this and the lockup is superb, I will eventually replace the lever on one of them with an RB or newer Magura open system lever. For now, I have the Louise on my "XC/FR" bike.

    Because good hydro levers like the RB lever are expensive, I have replaced the Louise with a 6" Avid cable disc brake. From what I have heard, the Avid mechanical is comparable to the Louise in term of lockup.

    I will be using an LX lever, and XTR cable/housing. I have no idea how it feels yet because I haven't put my new disc fork on the bike yet. I will post a review later to let you know how the Avid compares to my old Louise.
     
  8. oicdn

    oicdn Guest

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    My only complaint with these Louises though...they feel like poo compared to my Hope DH4s...yeah I know DH brakes, but when they grabbed, it didn't feel like the pad was grinding, it felt smooth. These Louises feel like the pad grinds away when braking hard, or modulating on a stoppie. Could be the rotor too, but eh, they don't feel like butter like my "dated" DH4s felt....
     
  9. afrobot

    afrobot Aluminum is for recycling

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    Oh Yeah... another old chinese secret is pad cleaning. If they have been contaminated take 'em out grab 'em wit sum insulated pliers and burn them for about 10 seconds on a gas stove.....And don't breath that shit..
     
  10. Shipley

    Shipley ..........

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    XT lever if cost is an issue, or XTR
    STIFF COMPRESSIONLESS HOUSING
    There are alternatives to XTR housing and cables but there's no searching if you just go with them
    Avid Cable disc brake
    (I like my 7 inch Louise rotor with a rear avid adapter-stiffer, larger rotor)
    Stock pads are good. EBC Red pads are better.

    Get rid of the Deores, ASAP. In the mean time if you need to use em, bed them in as everyone has said. They are a recreational brake at best, but if you set them up right they'll work. After bedding on a ride or two take them to a shop or someone that's got experience setting up discs/cable discs if things haven't improved. Enjoy the new frame!
     
  11. Elan

    Elan steve french

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    aye. good cable/housing is a must, and XTR cable.housing is only like $18 for both ends...

    or you can opt for a hydro...
     
  12. WhiteRavenKS

    WhiteRavenKS Well-Known Member

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    what are you talking about- huffing arsenic deeply is the fun part.

    put mud on your rotor and sprint. brake hard. repeat. your rotor has all sorts of surface imperfections you cant see. these need to be worked out by the pads this takes time and trials riders are impatient. the crap on your rotor and pads will help break stuff in faster.

    i saw the intense team do something really ballsy at telluride a while back- throw a bucket of cold water on the whole rotor/caliper set up immediately after a dh run. obviously you cant do this on a trials bike really but ride your bike around the block with your brake on to the point where it feels like a steep ass hill. toss on snow/water- sit back and watch your investment go through the roof or go down the drain- one or the other.
     
  13. Ed Gildea

    Ed Gildea New Member

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    what kevin said is entirly true.. use mud sand dirt, it all works..
     
  14. ascentrek

    ascentrek Original power yuppie

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    Thanks for the suggestions. The deore mechanicals are shit. I'll look around to investing in something else soon. In the meantime, it sounds like the mud theory is the way to go. I"ll also try to decontaminate them as well. They are used, and worn in.
     
  15. bigd

    bigd Guest

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    yeah, look into other pads as well, ebc reds are the ticket.. clean your rotor with isopropyl alchohol, sand the surface with a med grit paper (150-200) and run xtr cables and housing. you'll have to break in the pads again, they won't grip for sheeit in the beginning. also get a bigger rotor, like a 185 or 203mm (and an adapter) and you'll be boatloads happier with the braking.

    or go for an xtr/ avid mech combo with ebc red pads.