HS33 lever

Discussion in 'Observed Trials Discussion' started by Little Android Man, Apr 11, 2004.

  1. Little Android Man

    Little Android Man Free Cup!

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    Okie, I was riding today and in the process got smashed in the face with a 2x6 and messed up my brake lever somehow. I think I have to replace it, and if I do, is there a good replacement lever or should I just get another stock thing?

    also, to see if I dont have to replace it at all..when i picked the bike up the lever was..wobbley?..not on the bolt but where the TPA connects inside, and i could pull it maybe halfway to the lever before it would push any fluid at all. i turned the tpa a bit and it seemed very loose, but now the lever works i guess, but it only moves maybe half a cm up and down. will adjusting the brakes fix this or do i needs a new lever?

    thanks and sorry for the longwinded explanaiton
     
  2. durkie

    durkie Member

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    you need a new lever i believe. i had a lever like that where the blade would only push the piston in about a centimeter, and then it would be loose and the piston wouldn't pop back out. i dealt with magura for a long time about fixing it and made no progress. they sent me two new piston kits, which included new rebound springs as well, but nothing would fix it. you can give magura a shot, or you can try taking apart your lever now, stretching the spring out to make it a bit stiffer, and cleaning off the piston/inner cylinder walls for anything that might be prohibiting motion.
     

  3. Spacemunkee

    Spacemunkee Guest

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    trust me.. ive had my run ins with maguras now.. heres some basic facts ive learnt:

    1. they leak if: you have bought them second hand, ever attempted to service them, if they are blue levers ( god knows why i dont even know why but i had 3 blue levers and they all leaked.. ive switched to silver and they havent but the seals seem to be different in this years lever... hmm.)

    2: if you use the reach adjuster allen bolt.. next to ure tpa.. u get a lazy cylinder.. where one brake pad doesnt retract from the rim as well as the other. Basically this is due to less fluid in the master cyclinder and the fact springs etc are all different strengths

    3. tpa bolts can snap easy.. and they cost you a packet to replace.. not even worth replacing unless you want to look at doing some bodges .. take a look at the faq on trials forum if you wanna know how

    4. brake only works perfectly if they hit the rim at the correct place without using the tpa.. if they dont u need to use a pad bodge.. also see trials forum for that


    Basically i reckon youve snapped your tpa bolt .. or bent something inside thats causing the piston to stick to the inside of cylinder.. either way.. you could just buy a new lever.... if you take it apart and manage to fix it theres is like a 80% chance that it leaks because the seals have been moved and all that since they have bed in... i think i may have had the problem when i was fixing my last broken blue lever. It went all loose like that but if i re bled the brakes it worked all fine again.. eventually it leaked though. id give a re bleed a try before anything else just incase ( use water or sumthin if you dont wanna waste oil )

    if anyone thinks im talking crap please correct me.. :) thanks.. oh also.. a quick reminder to myself.. keep the warrenty cards that magura give me with my brake kit next time
     
  4. Little Android Man

    Little Android Man Free Cup!

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    i figured out that theres like a loose clamp or screw that goes from the TPA knob to the hinge or whatever that pushes the plunger in, which is what is making it wobbly. im just gonna ride it how it is because i have no idea how to bleed my brakes, and it'd take too long/too much money to get a new lever here in like 2 days, and i have to ride saturday. so. oh well i guess.
     
  5. valiumlaw

    valiumlaw Guest

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    Sounds like you've broken the TPA bolt. This ALWAYs happens, even if you dont get hit with a 2x6. Just normal use leads to broken TPA bolts, iv had it on the front magura on my mod and the rear magura on my stock.

    Best bet is to bodge it back into shape.

    If it is the TPA adjuster bolt that has snapped then , you'll basically have to bodge which will involve; removing the lever BLADe from the lever body, removing the old screwy TPA bolt, replacing it with a bodge (I used a tiny bolt/screw and some tiny nuts(the amount of nuts put on determines the TPA adjustment, afterwards it will be permanently set at one TPA adjustment so chose wisely and experiment )
    When youv replaced the TPA with a bodge screw/nut jobby then re-seat the lever blade in the body and do the lever blade holding bolt back up. Making sure you didnt misplace any parts of the lever!

    Should be fixed, consult the FAQ section at www.trials-forum.co.uk for a FULL bodge instruction.

    BTW this bodge for the broken TPA costs under a $ and can be done in 20 minutes!

    You dont have to bleed your brakes either!

    And make sure you dont replace the TPA screw with something too big, as the space is limited by the lever reach/ size, if you put something TOO big in there you may over-stress your lever at some point and snap off part of the lever body!
     
  6. Little Android Man

    Little Android Man Free Cup!

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    I'll have to try that while im waiting, as Tim from trialsin just sent me a lever blade. will i have to bleed the brake if im just replacing the blade?
     
  7. BP-Mobile

    BP-Mobile New Member

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    I just fixed two broken TPA levers on Saturday. Only the TPA part was broken (wouldn't adjust), but Magura only sells complete lever blades already rigged with new TPA hardware. The blades come in pairs, so I fixed two brake levers with one order.
    I no fluid came out, you don't have to bleed your brakes when you remove the levers from the brake body for repairs.
     
  8. Andreas

    Andreas All About Trials

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    heh, he did the same for me! really nice guy, the lever is real nice, with the tpa bolt. slap it on and you'll be good to go :bigthumb:
     
  9. valiumlaw

    valiumlaw Guest

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    NO SIR, NO bleed required.

    Just remember where everything sits when you take the old lever blade out.