[cck]

while riding a few days ago in very cold weather, i noticed the pad ajustment nob on the lever wasnt working. i spun it forever and nothing happened. then i decided to take the lever apart and anaylise the knob thingy. and it apears the thing the knob is connected to, snapped in half, probably because of the cold. has anyone else experienced this? can i just order this little 1 gram part, or do i have to buy a whole new lever? is saudering, or glueing it an option?
thanks
cam

 

[Tanner]

if you were to solder plastic to plastic together, I'd give you a thumbs up :ugh2:

 

[OTAdmin]

I'm not sure if you have to buy a whole new lever or not. If you do, consider purchasing an RB lever, I LOVE mine, and since an hs33 lever is like $60+, you might as well spend an extra $10 to get a more comfortable, more powerful lever .

Bill

 

[cck]

yo tanner, its actually the metal spindal inside the lever that broke, so it may be possible


hmm, rb could be nice

 

[Gardenfan]

You can order a new part no problem.

Rb levers are nice, but about 90 percent of them develop leaky seals after a short while.

 

[OTAdmin]

thats too bad Gardenfan, I've been riding mine for a year and a half with no problems, looks like I got lucky?

Bill

 

[Gardenfan]

Maybe they just sent the shit ones to us canadians?

 

[Tanner]

OH! I thought you were talking about soldering the TPA adjuster back onto the lever..and...well..

 

[Kartoffel]

*sigh*.... HS22 > HS33

But since old stock is hard to come by, see if you can get a deal on an aftermarket lever.

 

[OTAdmin]

*sigh*.... HS22 > HS33

But since old stock is hard to come by, see if you can get a deal on an aftermarket lever.

Well, the only difference between an hs33 and an hs22 is the lever.

The beneficial part of an hs22 is that it has a longer lever = more leverage

The beneficial part of an hs33 is that the master cylinder is smaller than the hs22, so it puts out more power (less pad travel, but more power).

I'd take an hs33 over an hs22 any day, I have both, as well as an RB lever. I'd rather ride the RB over any of them any day of the week, but the hs33 lever definitely comes in second over the hs22.

I also realize Kart, that this was probably different when you were into the sport originally, I think it was '98 that the hs33 got the "new and improved" master cylinder.

Bill

 

[Kartoffel]

Right on, Bill. I definitely remember when HS-33's came out. The smaller master cylinder can be a good thing provided the brakes are set up properly. Mechanical advantage rocks.

A drawback to the smaller cylinder, though is that you get less total pad travel for a full lever squeeze. The HS-33s also gained those breakable knobs that stick out. The equivalent adjustment on an HS-22 is bombproof, but you need to stick a teeny tiny 2mm hex key into a dark crevice to find it. It's a tradeoff. Both are good levers.

Theold HS-22s with those long-ass levers can give you just as much braking force: mount 'em way inboard and 1-finger brake on the end of the lever. Plus, with the longer lever travel you also get more leeway to set the brakes up with for more rim clearance. Mine are set so it locks hard with the lever only 1/4 inch from the bar. Makes a huge difference in hand fatigue.

 

[OTAdmin]

Right on, Bill. I definitely remember when HS-33's came out. The smaller master cylinder can be a good thing provided the brakes are set up properly. Mechanical advantage rocks.

A drawback to the smaller cylinder, though is that you get less total pad travel for a full lever squeeze. The HS-33s also gained those breakable knobs that stick out. The equivalent adjustment on an HS-22 is bombproof, but you need to stick a teeny tiny 2mm hex key into a dark crevice to find it. It's a tradeoff. Both are good levers.

Theold HS-22s with those long-ass levers can give you just as much braking force: mount 'em way inboard and 1-finger brake on the end of the lever. Plus, with the longer lever travel you also get more leeway to set the brakes up with for more rim clearance. Mine are set so it locks hard with the lever only 1/4 inch from the bar. Makes a huge difference in hand fatigue.

Definitely, thats what I meant by "less pad travel", but my RB lever has a smaller master cylinder than even the hs33 and as long as you keep your rim in true (which is NOT a hard task at all), I think I could go even 1mm smaller on the master cylinder diameter and not have any problems. I can adjust it so that it grabs from about 3/4 to 1/4 of the way from the bar, and it engages no problem.

I agree that the TPA on the HS33 lever is way too fragile, the one on the rb lever fixes this. It's between the lever and the bar and is a metal screw you turn. The only downside to this is that you can't really set it up with a thumbshifter (i.e. shimano). I've given up on shifters entirely, so this doesn't matter to me .

Bill

 

[BiKe4EvEr]

i highly reccomend RB levers. i have 2 of them (for front and rear, a bit excessive but they are the shiz). they give MUCH increased power compared to the standard lever, they look better, and they feel better i think!

 

[Kartoffel]

The only downside to this is that you can't really set it up with a thumbshifter (i.e. shimano).

Blasphemy! Suntour made the best thumbshifters.

By the way, those RP levers sound pretty sweet.....

 

[streetnutter]

Can't you just put a different bolt in, I thiunk thats what some one I know has done after his snapped.
And its working fine.

Bill

 

[RomanR]

if its the bolt that broke then this is how to fix them, and the fix will be better than the stock bolt thing



http://www.trials-forum.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=18902&hl=tpa+bodge


http://www.trials-forum.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=10041&hl=tpa+bodge

 

[cck]

thanks roman, thats exactly what i was looking for. now it works great.

 

[Pancho]

Mine did that last week. I found the ultimate repair kit, it's made by Avid.

 

[Elan]

AHAHAHAHA..way to go poncho