Fixed Cassette/Hub

Discussion in 'Observed Trials Discussion' started by Trialsaddict, Oct 30, 2004.

  1. Trialsaddict

    Trialsaddict I have no idea.

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    Does anyone have any advice, experience, or suggestions on converting a normal hub setup to a fixed system? If so, steps to take, what to get, etc...

    Thanks,

    TA
     
  2. Tanner

    Tanner New Member

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    take off the cogs, braze/weld the drive shell to the flange. Or take it apart and tack the pawls to the ratchet
     

  3. Dr Game

    Dr Game Guest

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    what is the advantage to this... u would get instant ingagement... but... arn't there more things against having a direct drive like that
     
  4. Tanner

    Tanner New Member

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    running a front freewheel.
     
  5. Trialsaddict

    Trialsaddict I have no idea.

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    What do you mean by tacking the pawls? What do I use etc...

     
  6. Dr Game

    Dr Game Guest

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    use a welder... but i'm still wondering about doing this... it sounds sketch to me...
     
  7. Tanner

    Tanner New Member

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    Or you know, the most practical way of locking out a hub.


    Anyways, use a MIG welder if you want a really fast way to do it

    EDIT- Tack=tack weld
     
  8. Dr Game

    Dr Game Guest

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    but wending it... wouldn't that hinder any kind of coasting ability? like wouldn't that mean you could no longer manual? or stop pedaling right before u go to hop up and over something?
     
  9. freeridercam

    freeridercam le Tall

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    Front freewheel, my friend.
     
  10. Trialsaddict

    Trialsaddict I have no idea.

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    Yes, you are correct on it hindering any coasting. But, that is the reason you run a front freewheel on the crankarm. Woodman makes a nice set which I'm looking into getting. Having a freewheel with 72 point engagement is way better than most cassette bodies.

     
  11. Dr Game

    Dr Game Guest

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    wow wow wow... anyone have a picture of this?
     
  12. Tanner

    Tanner New Member

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    Look on any decent mod
     
  13. Trialsaddict

    Trialsaddict I have no idea.

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  14. Lagerhead

    Lagerhead New Member

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    I just took the cassette body off of the hub and pry-ed out the lip seal on the back of the cassette body, exposing the bearing, and blasted inside that bearing with my MIG (gassless, even!) welder.

    If you are planning on doing something like this to a Shimano hub, I would suggest that you go to your LBS and ask them to save the next bad cassette they come across. There is no reason to "fix" a good hub.

    I don't think JB Weld would be any eaiser considering you would have to remove all grease from inside the cassette body to get it to stick. You could just fill the entire body with JB Weld but you would get the epoxy everywhere.

    Tanner, fix our sig...
     
    Last edited: Oct 30, 2004
  15. Tanner

    Tanner New Member

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    Ah good ol fluxcore welding. I'm assuming 110v wirefeed? Anyways, Lager is right, don't ruin a good hub.

    And jbweld probably wont hold, but it may. Something about fusing metal just makes me happier about the strength.

    whats wrong with my sig?
     
  16. AgrAde

    AgrAde From your head to your fists

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    this works 205972340534597x better than any of your recommendations.

    i recommend using wire instead, the zip tie came undone after a while. i now use wire but the idea is the same. for anyone who says "wtf that's a stupid idea" or "omg shitmano lol" - kiss my ass. no probs for a long time. i take it off and it's all worky again.
     
    Last edited: Apr 9, 2008
  17. madbiker66

    madbiker66 Jigga wot?

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    isn't there loads of sloppiness/springyness in the zip tie though?
     
  18. RomanR

    RomanR DualDisc 26"

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    No there isn't. All the ziptie needs to do is keep the hub from freewheeling, which doesn't take a lot of force. The hub is already engaged going forwards, the zip tie just holds it in place so that it doesn't disengage.
     
  19. trialspads

    trialspads TrialsPads.com

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  20. Tanner

    Tanner New Member

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    I'd still be worried about the ziptie/wire snapping