Cheap chinese ebay parts
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Think the first ride should be the 38 mile race thru pisgah? over 5k feet climbing, everyone saying the most brutal ride they ever do...
I ordered a continental cross king 2.2 to replace the current 2.35 der baron, hope to lose some rotational mass there... last ride i ran around 10 psi in the back, really dumb move. But i never slipped out and most hike and bike sections of the trail..
I think rear rim is 42mm? massive echo rear trials rim on hope2 hub. Fixed a 6 cluster of 9 speed to the single speed shell... the xt shifters I raced on in 1998 still strong af and quick
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92 Posts
I have been using multiple parts from Chinese shops, usually I replace the grease and add-up on every bearings. check for any loose or small descripancies. And it rolls fine on m y Dirt Jump, echo 26 and street trials bike.
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1,698 Posts
what u got player?!
Realizing those rims are anodized so who cares, and of course all real carbon rims are $2-400 so never mind there...
However I have seen Buckleooz makes a 26” fork ! Review on ebey and $130 seems like i may jump fer it... Puttting a 2.2 cross continental tire on to replace big monster hans dampf in the rear, easily 1 pound gone there..
Current fork is ??? i think maybe the lowest manitou released in the late 90s... I just keep it as stiff as I can, like any good man.
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I got the under rated spank tweet tweet 2010 with generic double wall rims, China/Taiwan pedal pads, handlebars, rear hub, chain and headset bearings. still runs ok until today. I also got an older model of circus expert fork, bought at low price on Chinese online shop...
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1,698 Posts
I’m like.... cars are fucking plastic now, everything is plastic, for $120 an entire effing fork ?! My kinda future . Youtube reviews i saw were all pretty positive for a $120 fork. Used to spend more on a lunch
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92 Posts
any good or bad things for these? I am looking forward for fast riding at lesser cost. Big names parts cost more that twice or triple than these....
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4,313 Posts
Buy a set of second hand M780 or M785 shimano cranks, which are the cranks that the first set you posted are ripping off. They should be about the same price as the above and relatively easy to find, are relatively lightweight, and very stiff and strong due to being hollow, forged, and made with high strength alloys.
Make sure you don't buy the M782s because they don't use the standard 104bcd chainring size.
Make sure you don't buy the M782s because they don't use the standard 104bcd chainring size.
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92 Posts
i used to run FUNN Ridge cranks and after few years, I found out that the left arm have cracks on the axle clamp. I don't know how or when it start, since I haven't took them apart after building my bike. So I took off the old deore XT from my other bike and hoping for better alternative, otherwise I will search for shimanos or maybe FSA?
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4,313 Posts
A lot of FSA cranks don't use standard chainrings. And there's nothing great about them, no reason to buy them over anything else I think?
Honestly, Shimano make the best aluminium cranks. Mainly due to to how they're made - nobody else makes cranks using the same process that allows them to be cheap while also hollow ie light and strong. Everyone else uses solid which is heavy, or I or C section designs which aren't as good in torsion and get mud stuck in the back of them. The pinchbolts and splines are reliable unless you're an idiot, the bearing preload is easy to set and the 24mm spindle means the bearings are a good size.
It's all I've used for a long time and there hasn't been any product released that would make me want to change. Any of the Hollowtech II cranks are great, except for the ones that use non standard chainring sizes (Mxx2, M960, M9000, and to a lesser extent M8000). The BBs are also really cheap and in stock everywhere, which is nice.
The SLX and XT are always the same weight with the XT being stronger and more expensive. Both are priced well and are common second hand. Either the 9 or 10 speed ones if you want 104 bcd, or the 12 speed ones if you want to save weight with a direct mount chainring. The 11 speed ones are fine but the chainrings are slightly less common as they use a bolt pattern specific to this generation.
The XTR cranks are considerably lighter at a weight that's in the ballpark of carbon cranks except way less prone to failure, and with similar strength to the XT. Careful with the chainring compatibility on them though, sticking with the 10sp or 12sp ones is a safe bet but anything else can be problematic.
Or there's the Zee/Saint ones for DH if you want strong...
Honestly, Shimano make the best aluminium cranks. Mainly due to to how they're made - nobody else makes cranks using the same process that allows them to be cheap while also hollow ie light and strong. Everyone else uses solid which is heavy, or I or C section designs which aren't as good in torsion and get mud stuck in the back of them. The pinchbolts and splines are reliable unless you're an idiot, the bearing preload is easy to set and the 24mm spindle means the bearings are a good size.
It's all I've used for a long time and there hasn't been any product released that would make me want to change. Any of the Hollowtech II cranks are great, except for the ones that use non standard chainring sizes (Mxx2, M960, M9000, and to a lesser extent M8000). The BBs are also really cheap and in stock everywhere, which is nice.
The SLX and XT are always the same weight with the XT being stronger and more expensive. Both are priced well and are common second hand. Either the 9 or 10 speed ones if you want 104 bcd, or the 12 speed ones if you want to save weight with a direct mount chainring. The 11 speed ones are fine but the chainrings are slightly less common as they use a bolt pattern specific to this generation.
The XTR cranks are considerably lighter at a weight that's in the ballpark of carbon cranks except way less prone to failure, and with similar strength to the XT. Careful with the chainring compatibility on them though, sticking with the 10sp or 12sp ones is a safe bet but anything else can be problematic.
Or there's the Zee/Saint ones for DH if you want strong...
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749 Posts
I 100% agree about Shimano cranks, except I specifically seek out the 96bcd versions! For a street trials 22t cog, the 96bcd tabs allow you to run a bashring that is as close to the 22t as possible. The 104bcd tabs stick out (up?) to far and are prone to breaking on a big bash. For MTB use, 104bcd doesn't really matter anymore because you rarely go over 36t, but the 96bcd allows you to go down to 30t if you want.
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92 Posts
Thanks... Shimano for the win
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4,313 Posts
That's fair, I was coming from a mtb perspective where every man and his dog stocks a 104 chainring but 96 is a lot less common. If you run a 30t in these days of gigantic cassettes then just get stronger. Or buy a direct mount crank.
i would have preferred 96mm square bcd to be the more common standard, to be honest.
i would have preferred 96mm square bcd to be the more common standard, to be honest.
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