are brakes meant to stop you or just be there as fun things that you pull on??

Discussion in 'Observed Trials Discussion' started by sebLG, Aug 3, 2004.

  1. sebLG

    sebLG New Member

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    hello,

    i require aid in BOTH my brakes. lets start with the front one, because that works the worst.

    it is a hope mini with an 8" rotor and EBC sintered gold pads. it does not hold my weight. when it go for the good old front wheel funky trick into front wheel hops the brake slides. it takes a little while to stop me properly. i want it to stop me dead on the spot like an avid mechanical. what do i dooooo?? i blead it already ... poop. ooh one more thing about it; when i put water on it it feels like the best front brake on the entire face of the earth, better than an avid even ... but only for about one minute. then it makes THE loudest, rankest, most annoying noise and a vibration so big it could vibrate your bike to pieces and it no longer works ... again. help meeeee please thanks.

    ok, now onto the magura, im gonna buy a new set of these anyway, because the one i am currently using i borrowed from a friend and i screwed it by putting an rb lever blade on it ... but id like it to work until the new set becomes affordable .... it works ok, it always worked well actually, but i reblead it and now one of the pads goes in, then releases, but takes a few minutes to fully retract again, which is really annoying. should i just get somebody compitent to bleed it for me? or is there something i obviously did wrong? does anybody have some proper bleeding instructions for me?

    thanks much all for reading my ramble. help is greatly appreciated.

    cyall.
     
  2. jmkimmel

    jmkimmel Active Member

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    don't know shit about maguras, but as for sintered gold disc pads: they take a long-ass time to break in. Like an hour of getting a friend to drive me back up to the top of a hill, then do the whole sand-water break-in thing.
     

  3. sharpe

    sharpe Guest

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    it's probably not anything to do with the actual system, so maybe try buying a new disc and pads to see how it goes. my hope mini works fine to me and i love the noise it makes when you brake lightely with water on it->that buzzing noise:)
    or you could try soaking disc and pads in solvent for a day or 2 until the oil comes out of the disc and pads.
    i prefer to use ether coz it makes your head spin and has a high boiling point so the liquid evaporates in about 5 seconds.
     
  4. Bloodhound

    Bloodhound Steffen L.T.

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    ^^ether...wtf? cant tell if your joking or not. It might work but I certainly wouldnt do it, not that I have alot of ether lying around anyway. I'm pretty sure the higher the boiling point the longer it takes to evaporate, generally of course (fuck chemistry and its damned exceptions).

    First thing I'd do is clean your disk thuroughly with isopropylnol, common rubbing alcohol has 60-80% concentration of it, so just use that.

    I was actually gonna post a few sugestions about the other stuff but then I realized everyone would probably be better off if I just stfu and let the people who know what their talking about post. so I'll just leave it at that... sorry for making you read this nonsense.
     
  5. sharpe

    sharpe Guest

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    i am the last person who should be studying phsyics and chemistry, but why would it take longer to evaporate?
    seriously, ether kicks ass and it works really well on disc brake cleaning, although it may eat through your seals.
     
  6. loffa

    loffa Member

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    I think that all you need to do is rebleed your rear magura, because it has air in it. My mate had same problem and rebleeding helped.
     
  7. sebLG

    sebLG New Member

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    hey,

    i am pretty sure my pads are broken in, i have just been running shitty brakes for a while ... but what i the sand and water breaking in technique thing? and ill try some methylated spirits (just almost pure alchahol) on my rotor and that, thanks.

    mmm with the magura, i guess ill just get somebody compitent to do it.

    thanks for reading my ramble.

    cyall.
     
  8. Bjorre

    Bjorre Guest

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    From what I've been told, you should avoid the EBC sintered Gold pads if you intend to use the brakes for trial. The Gold pads need a large amount of heat to work properly, which isn't a problem if your running DH or something similar.. you dont get the pads that warm enough to bite doing trials.. Try the EBC red instead.
     
  9. MikeTheBike

    MikeTheBike Active Member

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    Actually, this is the opposite of my experience. The EBC Reds work great right out of the box, 5 minute breakin, suck when wet and wear out fast. The Golds take FOREVER to breakin, work even better when wet (once broke in) and last a very long time (i.e. 2-3 years).

    Seb, if you have done a lot of breakin on those Golds and they're still not working, the pad material is probably contaminated. I had that problem about 2 months ago and the only thing I could get to fix it was a new set of pads. However, you might try heating the pads on the stove first. I prefer to use the stovetop with flame or electric because the fumes from the contaminates in the pads can escape into the air. If you can't do that, just try holding the pad in some pliers and heating them with a lighter. If you're getting a lot of soot left on the pad after burning, there's still some contaminate in the pad. Be sure and wipe away the soot periodically. Three to five minutes per pad should be sufficient.

    As for the rear Maguras, it sounds like air in the system.
     
  10. [BMF] Chris

    [BMF] Chris GTA MUTHER FUCKER!

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    very true, and actually, stock hope pads dont work bad, but ive found if you dont instantly pour water on them outa the box, they get this glaze on them, your brake and my friends break had the EXACT same peoblem, just get new pads, cause once that glaze is on there, psh, its over, ive had the hope mini and the mono mini, loved both of them........
     
  11. sebLG

    sebLG New Member

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    yaayyyyy for me i got my hopeless hope working like .. at least a little bit descently :) i did everything, cleaned the rotor, boiled the pads ... took the damn thing apart and cleaned it and then blead it ... thanks, hopefully it will hold up working the way it is if not better. cyall, thanks!!! i gotta get working on the mag now .. but tat still stops me pretty well.
     
  12. sebLG

    sebLG New Member

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    pffft ooorrrr not fuck hope are HOPEless ...HAH ... HAAAHAA ... :weak:
     
  13. alexm

    alexm Member

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    ok seb. come around here and i'll bleed your rear maggie for you and sort that shit out.

    as for teh hope, it needs a reblead, i dont have any fluid though. apart from that, bake the pads in the oven on a pizza tray for 20 mins preheated to 220 degrees celcius on fan bake. clean the rotor with whatever, i use meth and then rinse it with water. then clean the caliper out with a little bit of meth and rinse with water. should start working well. a bleed is necessary though, and unless you get me some fluid i cant help you. in the mean time do that and it should work pretty well.

    Alex
     
  14. sebLG

    sebLG New Member

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    funky cool stuff. thanks. :wiggle: i like that emotionicon
     
  15. valiumlaw

    valiumlaw Guest

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    www.magura.com do proper bleeding instructions. So does the magura cult web-site, here : http://www.execulink.com/~dtierney/wmc/Magura/contents.htm , both those sites contain everything you need to know about bleeding maguras, if you cant fix your maguras based on the information on these 2 sites you either dont understand the right way to do things or your product is faulty/broken. Going back to a standard magura lever may solve your problems if the RB is being crap, atleast then the instructions from these sites will actually be about what you are using, i.e. magura standard kit, all round.
     
  16. DaneBrammage

    DaneBrammage Guest

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    After bleeding the brakes use that tip from the maguracult website: lean bike on its side and remove the bleed screw (the bike is positioned so that no fluid can leak out, and the TPA is adjusted all the way out) ..then drop in small amount of fluid while moving the lever gently.
    this tops up the system 100%
     
  17. tomacropod

    tomacropod Rum Pig

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    ^^^^
    second that...after you've bled it through, push the lever really slowly until you see the fluid coming up to the surface of the bleed screw hole, then back off the lever, sucking the fluid back in, and drop new fluid in at the same time. The main advantage of this is that it ensures that the lever is full of fluid, sometimes bleeding can leave a little bit of air in the lever.

    - Joel
     
  18. stocktrials

    stocktrials Mitch.

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    ^^^^
    third that.. very good thing to do!! especially to an RB if it leaks- just top it up every so often to keep it in order
     
  19. OTAdmin

    OTAdmin Administrator Staff Member

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    I have always had problems with my hope when riding natural, it never locked up to my liking. I've been waiting for years for EBC to make the red pads for it and they finally did. I got mine about a week ago and they lock up great. I haven't had a chance to ride them in wet conditions yet, so I can't comment there... but at least in the dry they should work great.

    Bill
     
  20. Peace

    Peace pedocrab

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    till my forks snapped, i was runnin a mini with a 203mm M4 rotor with stock pads, and im pretty sure that brakes was the reason i snapped my forks so quickly, it made this nasty kinda sound that said "squeeze any harder and i'll snap these forks and rip this rotor off the damn hub!..."

    i had gold pads and they sucked ass and actually dissolved in a few months, all i put on em was brake cleaner and water sometimes..... but yeah stock pads work best and to me they last the longest....

    fuck the magura get a vee...lol

    Peace