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Old 05-12-2013, 04:50 AM   #1
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Best brake setup?

About to upgrade my entire setup (levers, cable, noodle and v brake itself) for my onza mod, I just wanted to know what you guys run and what you think is the best setup for me.. Thanks again



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Old 05-12-2013, 05:33 AM   #2
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if i was going to go out and buy a new setup i would go with:

avid sd7 lever and brake arms
odyssey slic cables
any noodle will work, maybe some are better but ive never been able to tell which is which.
any high end trials specific brake pad should be great, i would get some tnn pads



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Old 05-12-2013, 07:19 AM   #3
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As posted above but with a few personal choices:

Avid sd7 lever (nothing better for the $) but some guys also go for Shimano xtr or even Avid ultimates if you've got money to burn.

I actually prefer basic shimano brake arms: Alivio or Deore. Don't run xt or xtr as the linkage will develop play unlike the less expensive versions.

Odyssey slic cables are good but in reality any name brand linear outer cable will work in addition to a slick or teflon coated cable.

Noodles are quite particular to frames/bike setup as super wide rims or frames will cause the brakes to stick out. One solution would be to run a roller cable guide.

Tnn Lgv or Adv pads are the best of the best.

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Old 05-13-2013, 07:35 AM   #4
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I think I am really one of the only ones running a brake roller rather than a noodle.

Everything here is top notch advice- the Avid SL5 lever works just fine, but the SL7 has the red adjuster knob- I literally never use it. SL5 or Deore levers are just fine, as mentioned you can run XTR or Avid ultimates, but its all about how much you want to spend.

As for pads I currently use the inspired clear pads, bought a set since they were cheap, liked them so much its the only pad Ive been using for over 2 years now. I've got one more set to burn thru than I will probley get the TNN pads next.

Also want to invest in a Vee booster, the Echo is good, but its bulky. Check around the For Sale section for Vee boosters that people are selling, the Shimano Carbon booster is still very saught after some 10 years later.

You really shouldnt spend more than 50-65 bucks on a good working vee brake system.

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Old 05-13-2013, 01:06 PM   #5
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Anything involving evo adapters

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Old 05-13-2013, 01:09 PM   #6
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Anything involving evo adapters


I have 4-bolt mounts but I run v-adapters on them with evo adapters on top for moar better adapting power. My brakes are teh sex
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Old 05-13-2013, 01:11 PM   #7
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Not to derail the thread but can anyone tell me the best bike? I'm 6ft tall and have been riding for 7 weeks and my inseam is 32. Thanks in advance guise

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Old 05-13-2013, 01:27 PM   #8
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Avid Ultimate calipers*
any XTR V-Brake lever
TNN yellow (name?) pads
Odyssey Linear Slics
any booster

*even though hate is a strong feeling to have towards a bike part, i seriously hate Avid/Sram (Truvativ and Rock Shox not so much...), but the Ultimate calipers are worth every penny....

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Not to derail the thread but can anyone tell me the best bike? I'm 6ft tall and have been riding for 7 weeks and my inseam is 32. Thanks in advance guise
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Old 05-13-2013, 01:58 PM   #9
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It's because the Black Ops division/stuff of theirs is made in totally different facilities with higher QC. That's why the Ultimate stuff is always awesome and consistent.

The standard awesome set-up is:

Ultimate calipers
XTR levers
Linear teflon housing
teflon coated cables
aluminum backings on pads

You don't have to use ultimate calipers, other vees like super cheapo tektros work just the same as far as performance goes, but the lever feel will not be as nice. It will be a little more spongy and have SLIGHTLY more resistance because the Ultimates use sealed bearings, not copper bushings like every other vee brake.

Same goes for the XTR levers. Most people use them because not only is it bike bling and the added leverage nice, but the lever itself feels nice under your finger. In all honesty though, the added leverage isn't necessary. A cheap lever works just as well, but most of the time they just feel like shit under your finger and are ugly as fuck so people avoid them.

The teflon and linear housing is a MUST though as are the teflon coated cables. Without it, it doesn't matter what lever or calipers you have, your brake will feel like shit comparatively. Make sure you have teflon housing in your linear housing too. Not all linear housing have teflon liners.

The alu backings are a must if you use refillable pads. The backing takes out most of the sponge. The rest of it is in the pad itself. I cut off roughly a third of my pad and it stiffened up the lever substantially. That's not necessary, and obviously my brake pad life was cut short, but it was a feel thing. Otherwise, the clear pads that don't have backings (non-refiillable ones) will work just fine and are actually less spongy cause they have less pad material. You'll also have more crank arm clearance from having a lower profile set-up.

FWIW, I don't give a shit what parts on my trials bike cost. It's my main whip and the bike I ride the most. I want reliability and function. I'm using a Jagwire linear teflon braided cable set, Avid FR5 levers (yes, the cheapest avid levers) and Ultimate calipers. My brakes take half the effort to pull in than a water bled maggie. The front because the cable is so short literally feels like there is nothing attached to the lever. The rear has a LITTLE more resistance because the cable is twice as long, but like I said, about half the effort than a water maggie. It holds/bites flawlessly and the FR5's have a nice feel under the finger.

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Old 05-16-2013, 01:55 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rupintart View Post

The teflon and linear housing is a MUST though as are the teflon coated cables. Without it, it doesn't matter what lever or calipers you have, your brake will feel like shit comparatively. Make sure you have teflon housing in your linear housing too. Not all linear housing have teflon liners.

The alu backings are a must if you use refillable pads. The backing takes out most of the sponge. The rest of it is in the pad itself. I cut off roughly a third of my pad and it stiffened up the lever substantially. That's not necessary, and obviously my brake pad life was cut short, but it was a feel thing. Otherwise, the clear pads that don't have backings (non-refiillable ones) will work just fine and are actually less spongy cause they have less pad material. You'll also have more crank arm clearance from having a lower profile set-up.
.
I agree with everything rupitart said with this being the most important. I would recommend the TNN v-brake pads. The color of the TNN pads doesn't matter Green, Blue both work great and I assume the black is awesome too. I think there is a noticable upgrade from the clear pads to the alu backed TNN pads.

If you have some extra money to through around I would say the Avid Ultimate calipers are worth it if you can find them for less then $100. They are a little better in every way and they last longer.

As for cheaper calipers I have tried a lot of them. I would not entirely recommend the linkage brakes like the xtr's, they do give a lot of power but they feel really spongy and the get played out rather quickly and catastrophically. As for the simple ones, like the Avid SD's and the Shimano, they both work about the same but it seems the Shimanos have better bite and the Avids have better hold.
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Old 05-16-2013, 06:06 AM   #11
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Nothing like having the XTR set screw break, and your brake arm falls apart. Good times.

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Old 05-16-2013, 06:56 AM   #12
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this is an interesting thread, thanks for the info, guys.
I'm thinking of going to front v-brake using Shimano parts...

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Old 05-16-2013, 01:56 PM   #13
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duh....brakeless.

oh wait, which is better V or magura?!



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