Rob Drizzle

Here is a fool proof method for bleeding your rim brakes. I have used this method a number of times and had very good luck getting an air free bleed. It’s a long read and takes a bit of time but the results will make it worthwhile and the second time around it will take a fraction of the time.

Materials:

Basic bleed kit
Brake fluid
1 or 2 syringes (if using one, you will need a screw or something that can plug the tubing, can be purchased at a auto parts store) I recommend two
Hose or tubing, one 18” long section, one 6 – 12” long section, some hose comes with the catch can that will work great
2 Barbed fittings

Catch can, available at pep boys or other cheap car parts store for $5.00
8mm wrench
Paper towels or rags
5mm allen wrench
4mm allen wrench
3mm allen wrench




Pre-Bleed Prep:



1) Turn pad wear adjustment or TPA and lever adjustment all the way out and rotate the master cylinder as shown.

2) Push a short section of tubing on a barbed fitting.
3) Push a long section of tubing on a barbed fitting.
4) Remove 4mm allen screw from bleed port on the slave cylinder. Do not operate brake lever.

5) Thread in the barbed fitting fitted with the short hose to the slave bleed port. Gentle tighten barbed fitting with an 8mm wrench.

6) Fill one syringe with brake fluid and push on to the hose that is fitted to the slave. Do not push the syringe plunger. Fill second syringe with brake fluid and set down on plunger.


7) Remove 3mm set screw from bleed port of master cylinder. Do not operate brake lever.

8) Thread in the barbed fitting fitted with the long hose to the master cylinder bleed port. Gentle tighten barbed fitting with an 8mm wrench.

9) Push catch can on other end of long tubing and support as shown. Note that tubing has a high spot to collect air.


Bleed procedure:

1) Slowly push all of the brake fluid from the attached syringe into the brake system. Continue to push fluid into the system until there is some air in the tubing that is connected to the slave cylinder. Do not allow air to be pushed into the cylinder.


2) In your other hand, position the second syringe so that you can quickly change out the empty syringe for the full one, the system is open so fluid WILL leak out of the lower hose! If you only have one syringe, ready the plug/screw instead. Remove empty syringe and quickly replace with full syringe or plug/screw, fill empty syringe if only using one and replace plug/screw with full syringe.

3) Draw the air out of the short section of hose by pull up slowly on the syringe plunger. Make sure that no air is in the short section of hose.

4) Slowly push ¾ of the fluid from the second syringe through the system.

5) By now the catch can should be half full with brake fluid.

6) If air bubbles are in the long section of hose, tap on the long section of bleed hose to help move the air up into the catch can while holding the can high.
7) Actuate the brake lever, I find that if you give a quick squeeze all the way to the bar and hold it for a second and then slowly release helps pump the air out. You can watch the air quickly move up the long tubing, make sure that as you release the lever you do not draw the air back into the master cylinder. Do this a 10 times or until no additional air comes out.


8) Take a couple minute break, grab a “soda”, watch TV, whatever… Give any remaining air in the system to travel to the high points of the system.
9) Repeat step 7 a few more times until satisfied that all the air is removed.
10) Lower the catch can so that it is below the master cylinder, loosen the barbed fitting from the master cylinder. Hold hose higher than catch can to drain the remaining brake fluid from the hose into the catch can and set aside.
11) Replace set screw into the master bleed port and tighten. Clean up any pushed out fluid.
12) Ready the 4mm slave bleed port allen screw.
13) Unscrew the barbed fitting and short hose with the syringe still connected from the slave cylinder, taking care not to spill the remaining fluid from the syringe and quickly replace the bleed port screw and tighten. A bit of fluid will leak as you tighten the screw so get the paper towel ready.

14) Clean up any spilt fluid and away you go!

*EDIT*

After pushing the second syringe through and getting the all the air out of long hose and catch can, you can pull fluid back into the syringe from the catch can by pulling on the plunger... This way if you had A LOT of air you can run another syringe through.

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-Rob

J_Dada

Awesome thread

Sticky.

ateam

Sticky City Doch. Awesome and thank you.

Jitters

Pretty slick, slick. Very informative!

On another note, weren't you gonna file the end of that lever housing off before it breaks? Were those the levers that crack on everyone?

jbinion

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Well sir, I thin he mighta lost his marbles... dun cut his seat plum offn that thar cicle

Rob Drizzle

It is on my list of things to do...
The reason why I had to do the bleed was to replace my master that cracked at the clamp... lol

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-Rob

sk8dad

Nice post.

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Trials, it's an annoying sport. --fellow trials rider

dark_biker

Bath Bleed

Rob Drizzle

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-Rob

dark_biker

Touche

Might try that at some juncture....certainly did a damned good job with the pictures and description

Rob Drizzle

Thank you. Works like a charm

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-Rob

va_tick

Very informative post but it reminds me why I just stick mine in the sink and fill with water, lol.

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:)

netto

thats a really good guide! i just use a massive syringe

Mike Steidley

Hey guys, here is my trick- Get one full syringe and then a second thats empty, Get all the air out of the first and hook it up, connect the second and bleed away, once the second one is full you can tip it up and push the fluid back and forth to work any air out.

Also, it helps to flick the line a bit as you can help any stubborn air bubbles move thru the system.

This is a great guide tho nice work!!!

Rob Drizzle

I did this until one of the syringes popped off because the plunger got stuck when I was pushing on the other... The catch can easily allows fluid to move to and from the syringe without the yelling from the wife!

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-Rob

sxbud138

Any tips on how to remove brake fluid from the living room floor ??

Rob Drizzle

HAHAHAHA!!!! you too huh... Oxyclean may work cause it's mineral oil....

Or do what I do... Put a paper towel down and step on a few times... Come back after it dries and hack at it with a comb...

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-Rob

ateam

If you have bleed your system and still seem to have air in the line which is very common with motorcycles, try getting on the bike and bounce around for a few minutes. This may dislodge any miscues air bubbles in the line or caliper area that just won't bleed out.

Rob Drizzle

Yeah... In the "few minute break" I shake the bike a bit and tap on all the line with a pen. That usually helps get the air moving...

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-Rob

Crescent

I just use a pressurized brake bleeder which I attach to the master then as it pressurizes the system I just open close the slave valve and bam done..all but maybe 2 minutes work...never air.
You can also use a reverse pressure bleeder which is the same thing but forced up through the slave to the master.
Same concept except more mess.

BTW this is an automotive tool for those who don't know.

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Ogre

great guide, but water bleeds or cable ftw.

Crescent

Are you serious??
If so there is a thing called Brake cleaner comes in an aerosol can ..any auto parts store has this.

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Arguing on the internet is like being a contestant in the Special Olympics.
You may win, but you're still a retard.

Rob Drizzle

Don't spray brake cleaner on anything in your house that you value...

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-Rob

sxbud138

LOL +1 that will take the color out of anything or just turn it into a puddle of crud.

i was just giving doch a hard time about his bike in the living room.

Stock

This is almost exactly what I do.

The only thing I would add: On post-05 maguras, loosen the brake clamp, then point the lever down so the bleed screw is towards the floor. Then squeeze the lever (quickly) and rotate it back so the bleed screw is facing the ceiling (very quickly). This will get rid of any small air bubbles trapped in the master piston that you can't get out by simply squeezing the lever in place as shown above.

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