My Levelboss

[RomanR]

I've been bored at home since friday because I had my molars pulled out then. So i decided to take some pictures of my bike. Then i decided to take an old fork, paint it, put it on the bike, and take some more pictures.

Right now i have a 100mm stem with 2" rise bars, and the bike does feel pretty long for me, but i can do all the same stuff i could when i had some other 2" bars with a 50mm stem.

A couple of pics turned out a bit blurry, the rest are fine. There's lots of pics.


Pics with a straight blade Norco disc fork, from the 04 evolve. But the 01 team trials frames came with them.
http://www.observedtrials.net/otn/1Side.jpg

http://www.observedtrials.net/otn/1Front.jpg


Long setup. Cool sweep on the bars, theyre very stiff. 28.6, not 31.8. Have been too lazy to chop the fork steerer, will do soon.
http://www.observedtrials.net/otn/1Bar.jpg

My cool bodge setup to let me run narrow rims.
http://www.observedtrials.net/otn/booster1.jpg

http://www.observedtrials.net/otn/booster2.jpg

Only 1 side of the rim is ground. It goes through the red pads about every 5 or so rides, depending. When the grind was new, the pad lasted me 3 rides. Now they last longer. I'm too cheap to be replacing pads on both sides. Brake works tremendously, no lack of power or bite. Just mad noises. And it works in the rain too.
http://www.observedtrials.net/otn/1SideRear.jpg

http://www.observedtrials.net/otn/1Brake.jpg


This is my gnarly pedal bodge. No slip ever, and cost $1.50. I wont for the life of me ride without shin pads now, so the only drawback is being super hot when riding. I pulled out the pins with pliers, drilled the holes to 1/8", and put 1/2" long metal screws.
http://www.observedtrials.net/otn/pedal1.jpg

My hub has been this color since new year's. I dont know why. After cleaning it and all, i've grown to like it.
http://www.observedtrials.net/otn/1Exxon.JPG

http://www.observedtrials.net/otn/3XTR.jpg

Here's 2 pics with the fork i painted. It's very matte white, looks much cooler in real lfe.

http://www.observedtrials.net/otn/1White.jpg

http://www.observedtrials.net/otn/2White.jpg

And this is another cool bodge of mine. This is my cool tensioner, that i made with a XTR derailleur. Some dork bought th deraileur, shifted into the spokes, and my shop let me keep the "broken ruined and hopeless" remains. It works awesome, and looks cool. And it was free.
http://www.observedtrials.net/otn/1XTR.jpg

http://www.observedtrials.net/otn/2XTR.jpg



Well thats it. Im watching some A-team right now.

[oicdn]

Damn sick.....what bars are those? I know they're the Amoeba ones you mentioned in the other thread, but which model....

[Cole]

How did you do that pad bodge? Just glued them to the backs of the work out ones? Sick setup.

[AndyT]

Your bike is way, way too clean :p

[Cryo-Cube]

thats one sexy bike, the fork looks cool in white!

[tzimon]

Really nice bike man.. that Norco fork actually works really well. I had been using the same one off a Leech signature frame (POS) and loved it. Flexy as hell but worked really well with no worry cromo.

[RomanR]

haha im fond of having it decent looking. its actually all scratched up on the cranks pedals. the frame is still safe from anything though haha. i gotta ride more gnarly stuff.

oicdn, the bars are diferent than what i told you i think, because theyre actually 28.6mm clamp, not 31.8.

the pad bodge, i wanted to be able to reuse the backings with new pads, so i didnt glue them. i just use four 1/2" long metal screws going into predrilled holes. sturdy and reusable.

[B1105]

Yea nice bike but its too clean. Awesome pictures.

[Justin.L]

has that derailluer thing ever skipped? i sorta wanna grind off the bottom part of the cage on mine.

[RomanR]

na it works flawlessly, go for it. i left the b-tension spring in it. its the spring that most riders take out. this way it has 2 springs pulling on the chain, and it works better like that. with the spring removed, there will be a lot of tension trying to move the derailleur up, so every now and then it will loosen and it will need to be repositioned. this doesnt happen at all with the spring left in. you can also dial in the spring tension screw, and get lots of tension on it. the whole setup makes no noise, the chain can barely bounce up and down which is cool.

to do this just take off the inner cage and pulleys, and cut the cage that is attached to the derailleur so that it flows nicely with the curves of the cage haha. just cut it short. then just bolt the pulley back on. i got myself a spiffy dura ace pulley with cool smooth bearings.

i know a lot wouldnt be interested, but this thing can also change a few gears. for this, you need to put a piece of steel strapping or any sheet metal after the pulley, so that it can push the chain down to the next gear ( you can see the piece of steel strapping i used in the pic of my petrol hub. i dont use it anymore). since the cage length is... zero, there isnt much to take up a lot of slack in the chain, so its best to limit the setup to 3 or 4 gears max. it worked with 5 gears, but the tensioner got too vertical so the chain wouldnt go too far around the cog.

you can use a shifter, or just the barel adjusters. its cool, give it a go. it tensions awesomly, makes everything silent, and is cooler than a stick with a pulley. most people run single speed with their derailleurs anyways, and you can make it work with gears if at comp time your bike gets checked.

i think i covered all the points. any more questions, just ask.

[MegamoMidwest]

this is a little off topic, but technically would it be legal in competition to have no shifter and just manually shift through the gears with the barrel adjuster or some type of thing like that?

[Matt]

In UCI competition you can't remove your hand from your handlebars and grab other parts of your bike.

[Justin.L]

na it works flawlessly, go for it. i left the b-tension spring in it. its the spring that most riders take out. this way it has 2 springs pulling on the chain, and it works better like that. with the spring removed, there will be a lot of tension trying to move the derailleur up, so every now and then it will loosen and it will need to be repositioned. this doesnt happen at all with the spring left in. you can also dial in the spring tension screw, and get lots of tension on it. the whole setup makes no noise, the chain can barely bounce up and down which is cool.

to do this just take off the inner cage and pulleys, and cut the cage that is attached to the derailleur so that it flows nicely with the curves of the cage haha. just cut it short. then just bolt the pulley back on. i got myself a spiffy dura ace pulley with cool smooth bearings.

i know a lot wouldnt be interested, but this thing can also change a few gears. for this, you need to put a piece of steel strapping or any sheet metal after the pulley, so that it can push the chain down to the next gear ( you can see the piece of steel strapping i used in the pic of my petrol hub. i dont use it anymore). since the cage length is... zero, there isnt much to take up a lot of slack in the chain, so its best to limit the setup to 3 or 4 gears max. it worked with 5 gears, but the tensioner got too vertical so the chain wouldnt go too far around the cog.

you can use a shifter, or just the barel adjusters. its cool, give it a go. it tensions awesomly, makes everything silent, and is cooler than a stick with a pulley. most people run single speed with their derailleurs anyways, and you can make it work with gears if at comp time your bike gets checked.

i think i covered all the points. any more questions, just ask.hey thanks for all the details man. i did it like 30 min after i saw the pic, but the b tension thing isnt in so ill put that in now. thanks

[G-Jordan]

nice bike, what colour king is that?
cheers

[afrobot]

It was pewter?? That really looks great way cooler than 3d violet.

[B1105]

What pads are those in the rear?

[tzimon]

Magura Red pads.

[RomanR]

yes the hub is pewter, but it goes all petrol whenever i bring the bike down to my basement. cleaning does nothing, it might be the indoor light or something. outside, its an awesome pewter color. here's what it looks like, its a pic from when my px was being built up.

http://www.observedtrials.net/otn/DSCF0056-2.jpg


the pads, yea theyre just the red magura pads. im too cheap to buy anything else, these are $10 for the pair at my bike shop. theyre fine for me. on the ground side, the first pad went all the way to the backing in 3 rides. the second pad is still alive, though half dead. on the non ground side, im still running the same red pad i had on my mod 2 years ago, then my trek, then my px. theres barely a millimetre of wear on it. they really dont like grinds, in terms of wearing, but they work fine.