View Full Version : avid juicy carbon
hello?
06-10-2007, 11:02 PM
Anyone used these for trials and had them work?
Im using one right now and before i got water on it it was working ok and then it got working very well, like a good trials brake. Then i rode it in the rain and the shudder on it was terrible but it still worked ok. I got on my bike the next day and it felt like crap and didnt work worth shit.
Ive tried riding it down hills, putting water on it and riding it around ( which makes it worse). Took it to the bike shop and they cleaned off the pads and rotor and then it worked reallly bad.
anyone know why they do this? or if theres anything you can do about it?
WhiteRavenKS
06-11-2007, 12:17 AM
dont pour water on it any more. that's a cheap trick to get something to work better for about 3 seconds. you will probably have to re-burn in the pads and rotor now that your shop has "cleaned" them. the pads will break back in fast, the rotor will take a while. discs tend to work best when clean pads are grabbing onto clean, smooth rotors. something may look clean but there are lots of little nooks and crannies on the surface of a rotor that can pack up with crap from rain water and often "cleaning" your rotor only moves that stuff around rather than getting rid of it. ride it around dry, get the brake hot, be patient with it and it will be back to working soon.
hello?
06-11-2007, 12:31 AM
thanks for the the reply
ive tried riding it around for awhile and got it very hot, took it down some hills too. worked a little better but still nothing like before
i dont want to have to do that every time i go for a ride in the rain either.
any idea why it shudders so much?
WhiteRavenKS
06-11-2007, 12:35 AM
are you talking about the flock of turkeys sound? that's just how avid rotors vibrate under braking is what i've been told by lots of folks that wrench on those brakes all day at races.
CriPPle
06-11-2007, 01:04 AM
Shudder mostly comes from the shape of the rotor with the inconsistent braking surface, it can cause pulsing as well (forcing the lever blade contact point to move in+out slightly as you roll)
Mine was decent until I started fiddling with it (specifically Goodridge braided lines + EBC Reds), never returned to its former glory
I also didn't like the action of the lever blade, they're supposed to be ergonomically designed + all that but they gave me worse arm pump than any other brake I've used, and be prepared to have master cylinder problems right on the 12-month-old mark, apparently I'm not the only one who experienced this
Have you noticed a change in the sound of the brake? If it's changed from the flock of turkeys to a high-pitched squeal, you're contaminated. There's a chance that you didn't do enough hard braking after the wet ride, and whatever you have in the rain over there has been left to mix into the pads :? ... maybe.
I do miss the old gobble gobble sound though, my hopes are more of a whistle and nowhere near as loud
Good luck anyways, sorry for the essay
WhiteRavenKS
06-11-2007, 01:12 AM
the less i've screwed with my disc brakes in recent years- the better they have worked. the juicy 7's on my dh bike havent been touched in nearly 18 months and they are a couple of the nicest working brakes i've ever felt- and im picky as hell with brakes. same goes for my little bike, those brakes havent been worked on for at least a year and they work awesome. the mechanicals on my 24 only ever see adjustments to the pad dials if i bump them or they get moved in the car or something.
stocktrials
06-11-2007, 05:43 AM
ask Macbeth on here.
Macbeth
06-11-2007, 06:10 PM
Yeah, I was suffering a bit of turkey sounding crap on the front over the weekend..... Wurth Brake Cleaner solved all my problems this morming though..... Any good brake cleaner and a bit of a ride should get you sorted....
Gotta say again though that I am stoked with the Avid Code as a rear brake.... Seriously cannot believe how good that brake is :D
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