View Full Version : SS conversion
Boo_Berry
03-09-2006, 01:11 AM
Ok, so here's my dilemma:
switching to SS, options r either ENO, surly ss hub, and i sell my ISO
OR
tensile UCI cranks with track cog (of some sort) and i keep my ISO
anyone hav opinions or suggestions?
thnks
rocpyro
03-09-2006, 01:24 AM
Well, I'm not the biggest fan of ENOs, so I guess Surly???
tomacropod
03-09-2006, 01:27 AM
um, take off all but one sprocket and lock out your derailleur?
costs you nothing, you get to keep your king. Front freewheel is not an ideal system - I don't know why everybody's so keen on fucking around with it?
- Joel
Boo_Berry
03-09-2006, 02:00 AM
what's so bad about ffw?
lucky13
03-09-2006, 02:10 AM
Well, I'm not the biggest fan of ENOs, so I guess Surly???
I thought you had one,.. not so good eh?
Boo_Berry
03-09-2006, 02:25 AM
um, take off all but one sprocket and lock out your derailleur?
costs you nothing, you get to keep your king. Front freewheel is not an ideal system - I don't know why everybody's so keen on fucking around with it?
- Joel
so using the one cog, preferrably the 18T one (i can't remember if my cogset has one), but then the spacers i can find at the lbs?
lucky13
03-09-2006, 02:27 AM
yup,
whoring out my pics:
http://www.observedtrials.net/vb/showthread.php?p=233843#post233843
tomacropod
03-09-2006, 02:43 AM
so using the one cog, preferrably the 18T one (i can't remember if my cogset has one), but then the spacers i can find at the lbs?
you don't even need to take off the rest of the cassette. It'll be just like riding in one gear. Hang on that's called single speeding! But yes you can take off the rest of the cassette if you like. Replace the other sprockets with cassette spacers.
It's not rocket science dude.
- Joel
lucky13
03-09-2006, 03:38 AM
most people around here just use the 19t-17t attatched cogs for strength instead of a fancy pants king cog/surlycog. 18t/16t? what ever you need,...
CoppellStereo
03-09-2006, 09:12 AM
I thought you had one,.. not so good eh?
naw, he doesnt have one.
I do. your frame has to be perfect, and if it is, then you can run it, or if its not perfect (the alignment of your dropouts), you may have to take a grinder to your dropouts to make them align properly like i did, but after that, the thing is awesome. best thing closest to horizontal dropouts
and yes, they are a hassle sometimes, but its worth it to me
rocpyro
03-09-2006, 09:53 AM
and yes, they are a hassle sometimes, but its worth it to me
But you have to re-tension it all the time. although I do see the advantage of not having anything hanging off your bike to rip off.:dunno:
CoppellStereo
03-09-2006, 12:39 PM
But you have to re-tension it all the time. although I do see the advantage of not having anything hanging off your bike to rip off.:dunno:
when done properly, i go about 2 weeks without retensioning it
lucky13
03-10-2006, 05:48 AM
Since it's eliptical, couldn't you "preventative maintenance" set it up so that the torque actually pulls the hub ,..
oh crap I just figured that out. Answer: NO.
I'm having issues with the Rennen being on the top of the chain, but other than that I've only had to tighten it twice. Once for a smack on the bottom of the tensioner (duh) and once just because I had a tiny bit of slack due to the off center by .00001" fix cog on the cranks. Rotated the cranks to the "loosest" spot tensioned the Rennen and tightened it all down for a crisp drivetrain.
trialsin usa
03-10-2006, 10:57 AM
Et al,
I hear input from all sorts of characters (errr, I meant riders!). I have looked at alot of tensioners..... I really like the Soulcraft Convert tensioners. They bolt right to the hanger, and have a lock button (which means you can take your rear wheel in and out with out pain the in ass re-setting everytime). Downside?.......of course, it comes at a price (and a high one at that).... about $90. http://www.soulcraftbikes.com
Single speed rear hubs. Well, for the thread on type the Pauls Components are really nice. Lets face it, it is basically a front hub with some threads on it.... not rocket science. These hubs have the flanges set wide apart for as-close-as-you-can-get-to-zero-dish as possible.
Anyway, all the above commentary does leed somewhere........ that is question wise. Gear ratios. Way back in the dark ages (like when people still used compact drive cranks [22t]!), the most common ration used was approx 1.3 (22t front sprocket and 17t on the rear). It seems that this is the most common still? If you use a White Industries trials freewheel (18t) on the front, that would lead to the assumption that you use 14t in the rear. Is this correct????? Plazmatic has released some really nice 18t cogs, soon to be (end of this month) followed by 12t. The next will be something for single speeders......thus the question, which size first???? We have to have 200 made at a time, so one size at a time is the reality of it.
OK, so here is the shameless plug. We are starting to have single speed rear wheels built...... ZHI rear rim, DT or Sapim spokes (laced 3x drive side and radial non drive)..... $199 complete rear wheel. $299 with Soulcraft rear tensioner and 14 or 15 tooth cog. I'm so embarassed..........
tomacropod
03-10-2006, 03:28 PM
??? I'm not a character ???
anyway Tim he has a kiiiiiiiinng. Just sell him the tensioner and a king kog - don't ditch the wheel boo_berry!
Phil hubs > Paul hubs
- Joel
trialsin usa
03-10-2006, 04:01 PM
.....if you already have a wheel with King hub, I agree, do not dump it..... get a King cog/tensioner and be on your way..........
Milton Burl
03-10-2006, 04:54 PM
Never ditch a King.
BTW....Tims cogs are works of art, highly recommended.
CoppellStereo
03-10-2006, 05:39 PM
i would say a normal ratio is 22-18, or 18-15
ilneff
03-10-2006, 05:56 PM
in my experience the Soulcraft Convert tensioners do not work well at all.
they don't stay tensioned.
tomacropod
03-11-2006, 12:50 AM
I don't like non-spring tensioners. They don't stay tensioned and are a hassle when you want to remove your wheel.
- Joel
CoppellStereo
03-11-2006, 12:59 AM
I don't like non-spring tensioners. They don't stay tensioned and are a hassle when you want to remove your wheel.
- Joel
Zip ties:bigthumb: but that makes the hassle even worse :weak:
tomacropod
03-11-2006, 02:40 AM
yeah. Fuck hassle. I'm not a fan of hassle.
- Joel
trialsin usa
03-11-2006, 06:28 AM
.....repeat, there is a button that unlocks so they swing free when you need to remove rear wheel........no hassle.
As for not staying tensioned, the ones have I have see are fine..... the locking mechanism keeps it in place. Not staying tensioned could be improper installation...or defective?.....meh........
bike rider
03-11-2006, 07:44 AM
rohloff tensioner simple as really, awsome bit of kit, dont bother with non sprung total waste of time having to retension them its fit and forget with the rohloff.
have you got tensiles or are you intending on buying them? if you aint bought them dont bother there gash and you will be looking for your reciept sooner or later. middleburns with the ti bash awsome combo will not be beaten by anything.
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