Problems and doubts about cranks

[unlimits]

I've goi the monty alp cranks (no front freewheel and about 23 teeth). The cranks are in a good shape, but today i've seen the chain isn't tight (although i use a chain tensioners) and the plate is a little bent. the tension of the chain is because of the bent plate? can it be problematic? I was thinking about changing to a front freewheel system and a small cog and with what has happend today, but it's a bit of money. Does it a worth change and makes better the riding? and i've got a few questions abour front freewheels, i've red there is necessary to loctite, but if you want to change the freewheel and it's loctited to the cranks...? thanks

[Elan]

that makes no sense to me

[unlimits]

why? the bent in my plate isn't a problem? can it ride well and doesn't damage any other part?

[Don Coyote]

By plate do you mean the front chainring is bent? If your chain gets slack during one part of the crank revolution, then tight at the other part of the revolution, then yes, that could be because of the bent chainring.

If the chain is just slack all the time, it could be one or more of these other things: Improper chain tensioner adjustment. Chains do wear.
Loose rear hub / improper cone bearing adjustment.
Worn / damaged bottom bracket.
Loose freewheel bearing cover.

Check for play / movement in the rear wheel itself, then the freewheel, then your cranks. If all that seems tight (no play) then just take out the slack using the tensioners.

What could be damaged by riding the bent chainring? Probably only your chain and you, should the chain come off or snap. Depends on how bad the bend is. You can probably fix it using a vise and a large crescent wrench to bend it straight.

Biggest advantage of a front freewheel system is improved ground clearance, and your drivetrain gets better protection by the skid plate from damage. You also save a bit of weight.

Don't loctite the freewheel to the crank. In fact you should lube these threads or use anti-sieze when installing the freewheel. Perhaps you are thinking about the bearing cover, that probably should be loctite'd on an ACS or Shimano freewheel.

If your cranks aren't FFW thread-on already (I don't know, I've never seen the Alp cranks) then you'd need a new set of front freewheel cranks, and a 12 tooth thread on Monty/Echo/TryAll cog for the rear. You can move the 18 tooth freewheel on the rear hub onto the thread-on cranks. In my opinion it is worth, and makes better the riding.

[unlimits]

Thanks.
Don't loctite the freewheel to the crank. In fact you should lube these threads or use anti-sieze when installing the freewheel. Perhaps you are thinking about the bearing cover, that probably should be loctite'd on an ACS or Shimano freewheel. I don't understand that...

[Don Coyote]

http://www.m-gineering.nl/freewheel.jpgThe black plate in the picture with the writing on it and the two dimples is a cover plate that lets you service the bearings and pawls. If it gets loose your freewheel gets play in it and will wear out quickly. You tighten the cover with a tool that fits two pins into the two dimples. The threads of this cover you may want to loctite, but you do not loctite the threads that screw the freewheel onto your crank.

[unlimits]

ah, thanks. now i see it clearly. thy only doubt i have now is if i bought everything to mount, i will need a tool to put and quit the freewheel (is another tool needed to put the 12/13t cog?) or go to the shop...