Predictable skipping

[toni]

My ACS freewheel is new and tight and I have a new chain, there’s no skipping for ¼ rotations such as for pedal kicks but when I do an uninterrupted full rotation a skip at the end almost always happens. What’s the reason for this?

[KyleT]

That sounds really weird. I have an ACS and have never encountered that problem.

Sorry I can't help.

[JK]

It's probably your rear cog. Sometimes that happens if you use a new chain with an old cog.

[trials king]

Would you have to get a new cog then?????

[TooSicKs]

Mine was doing the same thing, it only skipped on pedalups. What I did was spray it down with break-free and get the thick ass grease that comes in it thinned down. I think that the grease thay use at the factory causes the pawls to float when you gradually apply pressure like when beginning a pedalup rather than havign them focefully squish the grease out when you pedalkick. I sprayed mine down and the problem seemed to go away.

[toni]

The new chain is the same chain as my previous and nothing has been modified just replaced. It’s still all standard koxx parts.


Yes TooSicKs thats exactly what happens to me! Thanks for that bit of info!

[airfruit]

well, I had that problem too but not on an ffw set up. anyhow, it was fine doing gaps and stuff but when I pedal up or do any pedaling that is around 1 rotation it skips. What I found out was that when u replace ur chain, ur cog has already worn to fit ur older, stretched chain. So when u put a new chain on, every little chain to teeth alignment is off by a little. when u do pedal kicks it doesn't really show up cuz it's like .03mm per teeth of the cog that they are out of sync. and when u do a full quick pedal stroke, they all add up and u get the chain hopping/skipping. from my understanding it's best to get a new cog. u are bascily trying to make ur new chain fit to ur worn cog if u dont' replace the cog, therefore damaging ur new chain. that's what I've encountered and hope it helps

[pan man]

i had the exact same problem with my WI. when i pedal kicked it didnt skip. When i pedal up-ed it did. Increase your chain tension by taking out a couple of links. Make it as tight as possible.

[PaulG]

The new chain is the same chain as my previous and nothing has been modified just replaced. It’s still all standard koxx parts.


Yes TooSicKs thats exactly what happens to me! Thanks for that bit of info!
the chain being the same type makes no differnce the chain wears with the sprocket creating parallel wear so that they fit together when you replace either the chain or cog only they don't fit as well and you will get skipping to fix it get a new cog and try the lube trick mentioned above that could help or just replace chains more often

i had the exact same problem with my WI. when i pedal kicked it didnt skip. When i pedal up-ed it did. Increase your chain tension by taking out a couple of links. Make it as tight as possible.
thats just forcing the chain to mash onto the casset in the end it will kill the chain much fast and put more stress on the freehub which will cause it to die faster too

[Filip]

Increase your chain tension by taking out a couple of links. Make it as tight as possible.
A tight chain is often the reason that the freewheel skips. If you wanna make the freewheel last as long as possible you shouldn't have a tight chain, atleast that's my experience.

[el Jefe]

Okay, Toni, this is a bit tricky to explain, but bear with me.

I'm not sure of exactly what parts you're running, but let's use the example of a 12-tooth rear cog on your front-freewheel-setup. Your chain is only ever touching six of the teeth at any one time. Now let's say you're putting 600 pounds of force on the chain when you pedal up - not an unlikely number because of the increased leverage supplied by the crankarm. Divide that 600 pounds among the six cog teeth, and each one is supporting 100 pounds of force. No problem. Now as your chain wears, it 'stretches' - that is to say, the overall distsnce between pins becomes greater as the parts wear. As the chain stretches, it also wears into each freewheel and cog tooth, making the distance from tooth to tooth greater. When you install a new chain, but not a new cog, the chain has a distance of 1/2" from pin to pin, but the distance from cog tooth to cog tooth is slightly more than this. Under tension, though it's difficult to see with the naked eye, your chain is only ever making full contact with one or two teeth on your cog. Now you're talking 300 or more pounds of force on each tooth. If you're running a rear derailleur, it gets even worse, because when the chain lets go of those two teeth, the extra chain slack the derailleur allows lets the chain jump right over the cog teeth - nobody home.

Okay, that was making a short story long. The moral of the whole thing is replace your chain A LOT, like before it can ever wear enough to wear-out your freewheel/cog teeth; or replace all three at the same time.

Hope this helps.