drilling a wheel after building it - bike shop dorks, need your input

[digby]

Just the thought of stepping through 3 sets of drill bits in my new dx32 to make 34 3/4 inch holes is making me tired. I'd rather drink a few beers sit on the couch and lace it up. This way I can ride sooner.

For you wheel building gurus out there, will putting large holes in my wheel negativly affect the tension in my wheel? I will be stepping through 2 smaller sized bits instead of just hitting it with a 3/4 inch bit, but will I have to re-tension later? Should I drill it then build it, or does it not matter what order I do it in?

I dont see why it would matter, but I also dont see why chopping a spoke out of a tensioned wheel would taco it(in hindsight, that was a bad idea) but its happened to me before, so I thought I'd ask.

[jmkimmel]

I don't know if this is universally true, but after drilling my already-built DX32(3-cross) front rim, it was still dead-true. Spoke tension was still good too.

[digby]

Also, anyone have any experience using a bi-metal hole saw with a pilot bit? This seems like just the thing for a lazy ass such as myself.


Jeremy are you around stanford still? We should go ride sometime.

[[BMF]Andy]

I dont know about the bi-metal thing but I have used a hole saw with a pilot bit before. I think it is definetely the thing to use with or without a drill press.

[jmkimmel]

Hmm...I just stepped from a center punch to about a 3/8" twist bit to a 13/16" twist bit (I've got a shop at my disposal). I think twist bit is the ideal way to go - much smoother, less cleanup afterwards. However, they're spendy, so maybe a holesaw's a more realistic choice.
Digby - yeah, still at stanford until June. I'm down for a ride anytime after this weekend.

[tamu-hardrock]

well I drilled my dx32 after it was already built and nothin was out of true. I used a center punch and drilled a 1/4 hole and then got a 7/8 hole saw with a built in drill bit and went at it. the only thing that would be bad about a uni-bit is that it only has one cuting edge and it rips and tears the metal away versus and hole saw which has many cutting edges and saws at the hole. if you look at old post they was that a uni-bit will work but is not the best way to do it.

[Elan]

if it becomes un true, ....... omg, is he going to say it??!?!?!? \


RETRUE IT!!!!!





FOR REALZ 1

[GarthMc]

If you want the best edges on the holes, ie not all jagged etc. Then use a milling piece as the final pass. They take off the material al lot smoother that your standard twist drill. And if you're reeeeeeally anal about it you could then ream it make sure that your holes are exactley 3/4's instead of 2.999999999999/4 :hsugh:

[tamu-hardrock]

wow :eek3: that would be very anal

[AndyT]

who cares just build it up then use a hole saw bit. Don't measure anything, it should take like 10 minutes. If you care about the shit being right in the center of everything go jump off a cliff.

[trauma100]

just hit it with a 7/8 bi-metal, you shouldnt have to true if you have a decent build, steped bits are $$$, you can pick up a bi-metal for short change.

[lucky13]

I found that the stupid hole saw would jam up if I didn't pop the "doughnut holes" out of it every couple times,. otherwise,..

punch it you lazy ass